Date: Tue, 7 Nov 2000 13:36:25 -0500 (EST)
From: Margaret A. Minahan <maminaha@mtu.edu>
Janice asked me about tips on moss culture - sorry its taken so long for me
to respond. So far this is what seems to work best for me in the greenhouse
with boreal mosses.
1.Commerical substrates (peat base) seem to cause alot of problems with
fungus.I have found using sand or natural substrate works best (natural
being prefered) and mixing with several parts washed perlite to improve
drainage. Remove sticks,large leaves and other litter, since these tend to
cause air pockets.
2.To get moss established, terraria of about 5-10 gallon with a glass top
provide a nice humid environment. Smaller containers work, but have less
air circulation and create more problems. Moisten the substrate thoroughly,
being careful not to oversaturate and place in the terrarium sloping
unevenly with lower slopes toward the sides. You can put a layer (1") of
washed perlite with a little charcoal in first for additional drainage.
3. Small matts of moss seem to establish the best, usually under 10".
Making good contact with the substrate is important, so mounding the soil
slightly under the speciman helps and pressing it in slighty. Toothpicks
(round) can be inserted through the moss every few inches to improve
contact, with care taken to not crush or distort the stems, which reduces
air circulation and invites fungus. Toothpick should be removed after 6-8
weeks.
4. I water by misting with distilled water only and keeping terrarium
covered. A light condensation on the glass is how I usually gauge the
proper moisture. Most of the mosses I've tried will tolerate some
desiccation, but are overall harder to get established if subjected to it
too frequently in the early period.
5. Bright light is best, with no direct or indirect sun which tends to burn
the specimans and greatly overheats the terrarium.
6. Most of the mosses I've grown seem to really prefer temperatures on the
cool side (40-65 degrees F.) although will tolerate warmer temps.
Overheating for long periods is usually tolerated poorly.
I hope some of this will be helpful. It's really taken a lot of trial and
error and not all species respond the same or seem to have more specific
requirements. As a general approach however, these methods have brought
some success in our greenhouse.If you have any other questions, feel free
to contact me.
Sincerely,
Peg Minahan
Department of Biological Sciences
Michigan Technological University
Houghton, Michigan 49931
(906) 487-2025.
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